When the Hotel Bali Beach first opened, and even to this day, it was a source of wonder to the Balinese. They came from all over the island to set eyes upon what, to the modern world, were everyday matters-skyhigh rooms, running water, electricity and elevators. The Bali Hyatt and Sanur Beach are the next largest hotels. The building boom reached its peak for a PATA Conference in 1974 when hotels at Sanur alone provided about 1,600 rooms. A new, open highway now links Sanur to Denpasar and Nusa Dua. The volume of traffic to the Bukit Peninsula has increased since more luxury hotels opened at Nusa Dua resort in 1982.

A wise government regulation that forbids buildings taller than a coconut palm has allowed Sanur to retain much of its village character. The luxuriant vegetation soon covers building scars, and moss transforms a new stone wall. The regulation encouraged the growth of bungalow-style hotels based on the style hotels based on the Baiinese norm of many small buildings within the one-house compound. The hotels of Sanur are all comfortable and elegant. The bungalow-style hotels are popular with tourists who enjoy the peace of garden settings.

Built along the beach, the hotels of Sanur are ideal in the early morning, for the coast there faces the sun rising over Nusa Penida. On the clearest days, Lombok's Rinjani voicano floats distantly above its collar of clouds, with Baii's own Gunung Agung closer by. Elegant triangular sails of fishing prahus glide on the calm sea. These boats are called jukungs and there are many for hire for trips along the shore. At low tide, the waters recede leaving great swathes of sand and coral that stretch for hundreds of meters to the reef, It is then that villagers wander among tidepools to collect coral, which they burn nearby to make building lime. At night, fishermen wade by torchlight to catch shrimp and small bait. Sanur is famous, too, for its magic, because of the many B rahmana families that live there and its proximity to the sea. Its farmers are reputed to grow the most delicious rice in Bali, formerly reserved for the tables of kings.

It is easy to spend a day around Sanur: lazing by the pool-side, walking on the beach, or following paths through the surrounding hamlets, rice fields and coconut groves. You can take a look at the coral pyramid in the sea temple or the old pillar inscription at Belanjong. In the evening the choices are several. Relax on the beach (especially around the full moon) or on the porch of a bungalow. Wander down to the beach market and try the local food stalls. Watch a dance or drama (your hotel can tell you when they are on) Or if it is action you are looking for, there are night clubs at the three largest hotels