Buleleng

Spread across the northern strip of Bali, the regency of Buleleng is flanked by the Sea of Bali on the north, Karangasem on the east and separated from the southern regencies of Jembrana, Tabanan, Badung and Bangli by grand volcanic mountains.

Pretty much isolated from the rest of Bali, Buleleng has developed distinct social and cultural features and continues to attract increasing numbers of tourist each year with its breathtaking natural scenery and unique history.

Buleleng was the first region to be colonized by the Dutch in 1849. From there on, the Dutch conquered the rest of the island, with the many buildings characterizing Dutch architecture. also taking the lead in the cultural realm, the influence of the performing arts in Buleleng can be seen in the southern parts of Bali.

Once Bali's major port, Buleleng traded with Indian merchants some 2000 years back as evidenced by the discovery of ancient beads in Pacung, 40 km east of Singaraja. The finding, in fact, was the first sign of Indian trade with the Indonesian archipelago. Small stupa effigies unearthed in Lovina also point to a presence by Buddhist monks in the 6^th century, who later traveled south, where their culture blossomed 200 years later. These discoveries bear witness to the role of the nearly sea routes in the history of Buleleng.

In the central part of Buleleng lies the city of Singaraja (100,000 inhabitants), which was the capital of Bali during Dutch times. Today it is a mix of Muslim kampung, Chinese shops, tree-lined avenues of colonial houses and neo-Balinese government offices. A Chinese temple (kelenteng) stand near the harbor, not far from Kajanan mosque, whose mirhab pulpit has an interesting combination of Moslem and Balinese decorative motifs. The Balinese elements of the city appear pushed to the periphery of the city while traditional traders (the Bugis and the Chinese) occupy its center. Visit Gedung Kertya library, where there are thousands of lontar manuscripts in the Javanese and Balinese scripts. You can also buy prasi paintings, done in the ancient fashion on lontar palm leaves.

A further 10 km south of Singaraja will lead you to Gitgit Waterfall, Bali's highest waterfall, where the inviting cool waters of the river below are worth a dip into. Tourist looking for a quite beach resort can head 10 km west from Singaraja to Lovina, along stretch of beach (with hotels and bungalows). The black sand beach is safe and a perfect place for swimming and snorkeling. Lovina also offers dolphin viewing. It is the perfect base from which to explore northern Bali.

West from Lovina, the coastal road passes trough the small towns of Banjar and Seririt. Banjar is home to to the only Buddhist monastery on Bali. The monastery, a blend of Balinese and mainland south-east Asian architecture, offers a stunning panorama down to the sea. Banjar also offers hot springs popular with both locals and tourist. Up the road, diving from the dry coastal area to increasingly lush landscapes, you will arrive at the small village of Pedawa, with unique shrines made from bamboo.

From Seririt, a highway braches inland and southwards across the most beautiful rice terrances in the island at Busung Biu and Pupuan. A mayong a mountain road will take you back to the Bedugul Hill area via Munduk and the Tamblingan and Buyan lakes located in the midst of rainforest. Munduk is an eco-tourism hill resort with no less than six waterfalls as well as treks to the pristine Tamblingan Lake and nearby mountain, rainforest and plantation areas. Visitors can stay at Bukit Jegeg Cottages, a first class boutique hotel set amidst lunch vegetation. Packages with cultural performances are coastal strip past. Seririt narrows westwards, with the main road winding past Celukan Bawang harbor and Gondol beach (a good place for swimming and snorkeling) before eventually arriving at Bali's western tip. After passing a huge rock-face almost to the sea and the nearby Pulaki temple, you will reach the newly developed Pemuteran beach resort, with far from Bali's cultural centers.

Pemuteran is an ideal place to plan excursions to West Bali National Park (Taman Nasional Bali Barat), comprising the nature reserve of Menjangan Island and the uplands in the west. Menjangan has the most beautiful coral reefs in Bali. Along with the nearby Labuan Lalang, this is a wonderful place for diving and snorkeling. Basic accommodation is available at Labuan Lalang, but you are forbidden to spend the night on this unique island.

Taman Sari Bali Cottages, near Pemuteran village and at the foot of the Pulaki Mountain, should be the first choice of accommodation for visitors. Designed to be a place for spirituals uplifting, the resort is in total harmony with its natural surroundings. Visits to temples, jungle trekking, snorkeling and diving excursions can be arranged for its guests.

To organize treks to the island section of the park, you need to go southeast to Cekik, near Gilimanuk, where the West Bali Park office is to be found.

In eastern Buleleng you will find something completely different. East of Singaraja is the scenic Sawan rice plain, producing Bali's best rice. the area around here has a unique baroque temple architecture best known for relief's dating from colonial times. In Sangsit, where boats still shuttle to the Kangean islands to the north, don't miss the Beji temple. Its gates and shrines are finely carved with serpents, Garudas, demon heads and floral decorations. The inland town of Sawan is traditional center for dance and music. It has simple accommodation and river views rivaling those in southern Bali. One of the few remaining gamelan makers on Bali has its workshop there.

 From Sawan, a narrow road heads south towards Bedugul through coffee and clove plantations and mountain landscapes. When you are returning to the coastal road, stop at Pura Meduwe Karang temple in Kubutambahan on the northern coast. The carvers here, besides making sculptures of classical heroes, have also integrated the Dutch presence in their relief's. The most famous shows a Dutchman riding a bicycle with wheels made of flowers. This is said to represent Nieuwenkampf, a Dutch artist who first explored Bali at the beginning of the century. He traveled around the island by bike, stopping to sketches of the temples and religious events he witnessed.

Further east, the coastal villages of Julah and Pujung, and the nearby mountain village of Sembiran, are three Bali Aga villages with their own versions of the Balinese language. The road that climbs to Sembiran offers a fantastic view over the palm trees of the coastal plain.

At the eastern end of Buleleng regency is the village of Tejakula, which has preserved an original dance tradition, with Baris Gede (warrior dances) and the famous Wayang Wong, which is performed during the Galungan festival. The road then heads eastwards into savaged by the 1963 eruption of mount Agung.

Visitor's Guide to Bali ( VGB ), PT. Media Dutaservisindo