As the plane descends we skim over an ocean dotted with the-coloured sails of local fishermen. The runway appears as a tiny strip cut into the green swathe that is central Lombok and as we taxi to the tiny and desserted terminal, Bali already seems a million miles away.

The adventure begins before you arrive. making off from Bali airport, the twinTpropeller'bus with wings' drones low over Nusa Penida, allowing a fantastic view of this rarely visited island with its rugged mountains and secluded beaches, Our destination is not however the mystical Penida in the Lombok Straights but the island of Lombok itself and its untrampled sunny south coast

Visitors often marvel at the user friendly nature of Bali as a tourist destination and these days the same can be said for other parts of Indonesia and specifically Lombok. From the picturesque airport at Mataram, the islands capital, self drive hire cars can be easily rented on arrival and with a good road map at hand, Lombok is yours for the taking.

The differences between Bali and Lombok are well documented and often talked about and no sooner than leaving the airport do these differences become apparent. 'Where is everyone?' you might ask, as the streets seem unusually deserted. This is Lombok - clean and serene. Even today the most widely used form of transport is the dokar, a horse drawn covered carriage which seems to set the pace at which the rest of the island follows.

Lombok's roads are in excellent shape and are a pleasure to drive. Straight, wide, smooth and empty, the main route south, through the town of Praya, passes along a vast open landscape of neat rice fields, orchards and coconut groves while the magnificent Mount Rinjani, to the north, provides a permanent backdrop in the rear view mirror.

Do not expect to see the temples and ceremonies you may have witnessed in Bali, the majority of Lombok's population are strict Muslims. Instead, look out for pretty rural mosques by the roadside, as the distinctive sound of prayer call echoes through the villages.

The town of Praya is billed as the island's second biggest but if you blink you will miss it. After Praya the road crosses an other worldly volcanic plateau that makes up much of southern Lombok. Here the landscape changes dramatically and abruptly. Tidy and manicured fields are replaced by one giant, open plain, extending as far as the direction. This massive dusty plateau is the domain of grazing horses, oxen and their herders who seem to live an almost nomadic lifestyle roaming across the plains.

This area, and particularly the village of Penujak, is the centre of Lombok's flourishing pottery industry. Terracotta coloured earthenware pots in every conceivable shape and size line the roadsides.

At its most southern end, the plateau ends as abruptly as it begins with the steep rise of the mountain range that zig zags across Lombok's south coast. These dry, barren and rocky hills are home to many of the Sasak people, a traditional Islamic hill tribe. The Sasaks continue to live as they have for centuries in tightly knit communities, their houses constructed from mud walls and thatched roofs.

One such community is the village of Sade where visitors can see up close the mechanics of the Sasak people at work and play. The Sasaks produce wonderful fabrics and at Sade you can still see threads being dyed and woven by hand.

From Sade the road winds its way up and through the mountains, past waving school children and busy hill farmers, until the road suddenly dips and you begin the descent to the sea. The ocean slowly reveals itself in sudden glimpses from the road, its view limited here and there to a bright blue 'V' shape visible between the mountain sides.

After about a two hour leisurely drive from the airport, the road rolls into the coastal resort of Kuta, the gateway to the pleasures of Lombok's south coast. Kuta is still a small, sleepy town squeezed onto a thin strip of land between the mountains and the sea. Backed by orderly coconut groves, the town fronts a beautiful white sandy bay lapped by a turquoise ocean. This is what you come to south Lombok for.

Kuta, with its wide variety of accommodation, is the place from which to base yourselves while exploring the region. The newly opened Novotel tops the list while more economically priced accommodation stretches along the bay. Prices are very reasonable, the local people friendly and easy going, the seafood great, the whole atmosphere in fact convivial to a relaxing and enjoyable stay.

This really is a beach lover's escape. Ten kilometres either to the east or to the west of Kuta boasts some quite spectacular coastal scenery and any number of dazzling, empty, white sand beaches. To the east, the road out of Kuta bounces and winds its way past tiny farmsteads and herds of grazing rusty coloured cattle, finally emerging at the double bay which is Tanjung Aan. Here two sweeping bays connect at one headland to provide a choice of protected waters for safe swimming and kilometres of pristine beach for nothing better than lolling about on.

Heading west from Kuta, the coastal road climbs steeply to an elevated view point from where much of the south coast is visible with bay after bay stretched out beneath you. Continuing on, the road dips and rises through the hills as far as Mawun bay. This brandy glass shaped inlet, surrounded by towering headlands, has the area's finest beach - a must see.

For surf cats there are numerous world class breaks on Lombok's south coast. Boards, boats, guides and information are all available in Kuta.

By night Kuta bay is transformed into a moving light show as hundreds of fishermen tread the shallows of the bay fishing by lantern. Don't expect the thumping discos and teeming bars associated with its Ball namesake, for Kuta Lombok sleeps well at night and after all, you'll need all your energy for lazing around on the beach the next day.

Source: Hello Bali Magazine, March 1999