Sunsets make memories at Kuta beach, one of the island's loveliest seacoasts. Skylight descends in warm waves of color, leaving shy stars behind. Village fishermen often set off at dusk, the sails of their prahus shrinking to frail silhouettes that drift across a wide, red sun. They vanish into the night, lulled by the rhythm of waves breaking on a beach longer than vision can discern. They return when the young warmth of early morning lights up the slopes of Mt. Batukau and, on clear days, the mountains on the eastern tip of Java.

Save for the fishermen, the villagers usually busy themselves at sundown and rarely wander down to the beach to sit quietly watching the sun set into thek$ea. Mads Lange, South Bali's first European resident, most have enjoyed it though. An Englishwoman, Ketut Tantri, who lived through th_e early years of the revolution in Bali and Jaxle, built a house at Kuta beach. The Kuta Beach Hotel, built on the same site, was opened in 1959, but guests were few.

Only in the late sixties did young travelers, at home riding the waves of Hawaii and California and elsewhere, begin to frequent the beach. At that time, almost everyone stayed in Denpasar, coming to Kuta for a swim, the sunset, a kris dance and sometimes a night on the beach. The villagers of Kuta were farmers and fishermen and metal smiths, and they were rather surprised at the great interest their beach received. But like many Balinese, they saw there was a profit to be made. For a small charge they invited the travelers into their homes. Home-stays were set up everywhere. These are clean, simple and cheap accommodation. A number of larger hotels, such as the Kartika Plaza Bali and the Oberoi, have also sprung up. There are many restaurants serving all kinds of westernized dishes and "soul" food, and mini-boutiques selling Bali beach fashions abound everywhere. Tourist activity has spread north up the coast to Legian and beyond on the road to Krobokan.

It is said the goddess of the sea claims at least one victim each year at Kuta beach, so be careful-at times there is a strong undertow. Mostly, however, it is fine swimming and the body surfing is great. Kuta and Ulu Watu have waves as fine as anywhere in the world for board surfing. Boards aret(yr hire. The Surfing Club of Bali was set up by an Hawaiian-in-residence and a Lifesaving Club patrols one section of the beach. In 1 981, Kuta hosted international surfing and lifesaving events on its golden beaches.