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Bedugul / Ulundanu Temple
To
reach the mountain range, you drive west
from Denpasar through Mengwi. As you leave
the southern plains, the landscape changes
from flowing tiers of rice to motley patches
of onion, cabbage and papaya grown in the
cool climate of the highlands.
The
clusters off arm houses along the way are
no longer the familiar thatched huts of
the south, but sturdy cottages made of wood
and tile to withstand the steady downpour
of heavy rains. This is rich alpine country.
The earth, saturated by mountain streams,
is smothered with thick moss and creepers.
The road climbs and winds its way around
steep cliffs hung with ferns, wild flowers
and elephant grass..
In
jungle terrain lies the serene lake of Bratan,
veiled with mist. It fills the ancient crater
of Mt. Bratan. Because the lake is an essential
water source for surrounding farmlands,
the people of Bedugul honor Dewl'tanu, goddess
of the waters, in the temple UluDanu on
a small promontory on the lake. One can
stay overnight nearby at a rest house on
the shore. It is peaceful and cool. Children
fish for minnows and canoes cross the still
waters, carrying firewood to villages on
the further bank. Just near Bedugul is the
market of Bukit Mungsu selling wild orchids
and both temperate and tropical vegetables
grown in the fertile soil here. Near the
market are the botanical gardens. Lake Bratan
is so lovely that it is easy to forget the
surrounding forest-clad mountains. From
the market a path leads through pine plantations
up towards the primary jungle on the peaks.
An old Dutch forestry house and the remains
of a once extensive garden lie mysteriously
within the forest. There is a small temple
VWgh up, its walls carved with superb relief.
On the road north of Bedugui, past the new
international-standard golf course, the
road rises along the lip of Lake Buyan,
affording a clear view of the Bratan basin.
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