|
SANGSIT
The
temples of North Bali differ from those
in the south. Instead of the small shrines
and meru towers of southern temples,
a single pedestal, built on a terraced stone
base, furnishes the inner courtyard. Often,
the pedestal supports a padmasana, throne
of the sun god, and sacred "houses"
to store relics and serve as a resting place
for deities during temple festivals. Next
to the classical lines of southern decoration,
North Balinese carving is forcefully baroque.
Every
crevice of the temple proper is gaily carved
in curves, flames, arabesques and spirals,
cascading a light ebullience everywhere.
A fine example of the northern style is
Pura Beji in Sangsit, a subak temple
dedicated to Dewi Sri, goddess of agriculture.
Nagat snakes form the balustrade of the
fine gateway.
Fantastic
physiognomies of imaginary beasts and devilish
guardians peer from the entangled flora,
deliberately cocked at an angle to throw
the facade slightly off balance. This dynamic
asymmetry continues in the inner sanctuary.
Jawless birds, fierce tigers and sunflowers
project from every part of the pedestal.
Rows
of stone towers jut up from the terraces,
forming a labyrinth of pink sandstone. To
counterbalance the overpowering decor, the
courtyard is spacious and decorated with
only a few frangipani trees.
The
North Balinese sculptural style with its
caricatural tendency is found on other temples
in the area-besides on the temples mentioned
at Sangsit, Jagaraga and Kubutambahan-for
example, on temples at Bungkulan and Bebetin.
As you drive along the north coast road,
also keep your eyes open for wooden split
drums or kulkuls which are carved
with a human head on top. For some reason
they are rarely found in South Bali. Examples
may be seen at Bungkulan (the village past
Sangsit), dt Kubutambahan, and the finest
of all at Tejakula. |
