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PENULISAN
The
main road continues its ascent to a hillside
in the clouds where, symbol of modern civilization,
Bali's television aerial, claims its high-tech
place beside the long fligh of steps rising
to the mountain sanctuary of Pura Tegeh
Koripan. The highest temple in Bali at 1,745
meters, Pura Tegeh Koripan is actually a
complex of temples at which a circle of
surrounding villages worship. The sparsely
adorned bales shelter lines of fine
statues; portraits 1 of Balinese kings,
queens and divinities; and linggas.

Several
statues bear dates of the 1 lth century,
another that of the 1 5th century. It is
thought that this temple was the mountain
sanctuary of the old Pejeng kingdom, just
as Pura Besakih was the state mountain sanctuary
for the later Gelgel dynasty. The clouds
often wrap them selves around the
high peak, but on clear day, the view from
Penulisan en compasses half the island:
from the crest of Mt.Bratan in West Bali
to the Java Sea. This temple is the farthest
point north on this tour, but one can continue
north to Singaraja.
On the return trip south of Penelokan
bearing right, you pass three villages striking
in their uniformity. The identical rooftops
and continuous high walls are seldom seen
in the more relaxed organization of typical
villages. Although such conformity could only
come from old communities where individualism
is still minimal, the true explanation for
their construction is the eruptions of Gunung
Agung and Mt. Batur in 1963.
Because
the soil was poisoned by the volcanic ash,
all occupants of this region had to be evacuated
to emergency camps, set up all over the
island. When the people resettled upon their
land, they rebuilt their entire village
at the same time. Thus all the buildings
look alike.
You
are now entering territories that were settled
by the Bronze-iron Age, which began about
300 B.C. and continued well into-the, first
millennium A.D. The great bronze drum figurines
are still preserved in temples as sacred
heirlooms, or have been found in the rice
fields and entered private collections.
From the 10th century till the Majapahit
conquest in 1 343, this area was the heartland
of the kingdom of Pejeng-Bedulu. Its kings
issued decrees written on plates of bronze,
from which scholars have been able to reconstruct
the history of the kingdom. These inscriptions,
found all over Bali, tell of village and
state affairs. Both Hinduism and Buddhism
were practiced, and priests served as advisers
to the kings and as members of the royal
court of justice. Many inscriptions describe
the founding of monasteries within a village
territory and the freeing of that village
from certain state taxes to pay for the
monasteries' up keep. The ruins of these
monasteries survive to this day, many bearing
relief cut into rock. Statues of gods and
kings dating from these centuries are also
of Pejeng, and various axes, jewelry and
preserved in dozens of temples. |