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NEGARA
A good distance from Tabanan
stands Negara, the capital of Jembrana regency-a
rugged strip of land partitioning the southwest
coast of Bali. From Gilimanuk, the harbor
at the westernmost tip of the island, ferries
ply the narrow strait to East Java, the route
by which most of Bali's import needs, and
such exports as copra and coffee, are transported.
The
most exciting event in Negara isthe bull
races, a secular entertainment that began
less than a century ago. Possibly it developed
from the custom of carrying home the harvested
rice by bullock cart, or it may have been
introduced from Java or Madura wherethesport
is strong.Bulls are carefully selected for
strength and color, looked after and pampered,
and never used for ploughing the fields.
Dressed
up in silk banners with painted horns and
enormous wooden bells (now usually replaced
with metal bells), they parade before the
scrowd of spectators. The course is a 2-kilometer
stretch of road, and the teams are judged
for speed and style. It is remarkable to
see such ordinarily docile creatures thunder
down to the finishing line at speeds up
to 50 kilometers an hour.
The
agile charioteers often drive standing up
and twist the bulls' tails to give them
spunk. For the fans, this regional sport
of Jembrana is a great opportunity for gambling.
A family that owns a winning bull gains
much prestige, and, besides, the price will
double. A little magic is believed to help.
If you are fortunate enough to be in Bali
during the bull racing season, usually between
July and October, do not miss seeing them.
Negara is the farthest point west cited
in this trip. The road, however, continues
around the island to Singaraja, through
lonely regions of the northwest. The journey
takes a full day, on the seldom-used roads.
From this point, your tours may take you
through Gilimanuk and by ferry to East Java,
where breathtaking scenery awaits you. |
